DMZ visit 2

Hi,

A Sunday night is rapidly becoming the time for me to blog. The weekend is almost finished, and I can recount my adventures from the previous days.

We (Neil M and I) returned to the DMZ on Saturday, along with Gordon Roberts and Matt Gilbert, an Australian guy who has only been here for a month or so and works near Gordie.

It was the same story as last time, up early and into Seoul. This time we went to the Lotte Hotel (one of Seoul's biggest and best) and registered at the tour desk. Because this time we would be venturing into the DMZ proper, we were all dressed reasonably smartly, I opted for a dress trousers - shirt combo. Then it was onto the bus and we headed north. Our tour guide this time round was very good, and provided much useful background to the DMZ and the Korean War.

Most of the morning followed the same route as DMZ visit 1, we went to the 3rd tunnel first, although this time we did not have to walk down to the tunnel, we rode a little monorail. It went down a very steep and small shaft, I was glad of my hard-hat as my head hit the tunnel wall on many occasions!

We then went to Dora Observatory, Dorasan Station and then broke for lunch which consisted of Bulgogi (best described as a sort of meat stew with noodles) and strong coffee, which were both very tasty.

Then it was on to the Freedom Bridge where we changed buses, and crossed back over the Unification bridge and headed for the DMZ proper. This time, our passports were checked twice, once on the Unification bridge by a ROK (Republic Of Korea) soldier with a big gun, and then again at the entrance to Camp Bonifas (the main US camp) by an American soldier with a smaller gun.

Once we were inside Camp Bonifas we were led into a briefing room and shown a series of slides by someone who A: could not work the projector and B: had awful English. Slightly disapointing, given that everything else on the trip was very professionally undertaken. We also had to sign a disclaimer at this point absolving the UNC (United Nations Command, the group of 16 nations who run Panmunjom/JSA) of any blame should the North Koreans decide to attack us. It was quite exciting!

We then boarded ANOTHER bus and headed back out of Camp Bonifas and through the Southern boundary line of the DMZ (ahhhhhh!) this consisted of tank blockades, 2 fence lines with rows of white stones on them (if the fence is tampered with the stones fall off and this makes it easy to spot) and a live minefield. We passed the only SK village in the DMZ, complete with massive flagpole and SK flag. The residents (about 250 I think) are all farmers and are exempt from taxation and military service, but have to observe a curfew and having to pass through numerous checkpoints every time they need a pint of milk. I imagine a stroll in the countryside is frowned upon also.

After passing through a final checkpoint, we arrived at the JSA (Joint Security Area) proper. We disembarked, formed two orderly lines and were led into a spotless, new building that was built to host reunited families but has never been used. At this point our guide warned us we should not, under any circumstances, point, wave or gesture towards North Korea at any time. The reason being, they could take photos of us doing so and alter them to make it look like we were giving them the finger, which would reflect badly on the UNC.

So, as were are being led out to the meeting house, what does Neil Jardine do? He points and says "Wow, it's North Korea!". I am such an idiot. Luckily no-one saw, but if the North Korean Times publishes a photo of me giving the V's to them......i didn't mean it!

We were led inside the meeting house, one of 3 buildings that straddles the actual border between North and South. It was eerily quite. There were 3 South Korean guards standing motionless, one guarding the door to NK, one standing in the middle and one at the SK door. We were allowed to move freely around the room, so that meant we were allowed to cross into North Korea! I will let the pictures do the talking:

The view out the window from the meeting house, looking back into SK. The guard stands at the corner of the building so that he is not fully visible to the North, making a potential potshot harder to achieve.

This line of concrete marks the actual border, or Military Demarcation Line (MDL). The gravel side is SK, the sand is NK.

Me standing with the SK soldier who is guarding the door to NK. So in this photo I am standing in North Korea! He stood absolutely still the whole time, I think he looks quite cool in his aviators. After we left I saw another soldier making sure this guy was OK, dusting down his sleeves.

We were allowed about 5 mins inside the meeting room, and were then led back into the big building and out onto a viewing platform. From here we got a good view of the NK side of the JSA area.

The view to NK. The small buildings in the foreground are the meeting buildings, and the big one behing is the main NK building in the JSA. It was originally only 2 stories high but they added another one on to make it seem more impressive. We only saw 2 NK soldiers the entire time, one stood out in front of the big building and scanned the south with binoculars, whilst another one was peering out an open window in a guard tower watching us. You can see the guard tower in the video below.

Here's another one of us driving past the meeting houses on the way out of the JSA. Notice the ROK soldiers standing at the buildings and our guide saying "don't stand up!"

We drove to a checkpoint where there is a good view over the DMZ to North Korea, and had this group photo taken. L-R: Me, Neil M, Matt, Gordie. All the land in the background is NK.

Our last stop inside the JSA was at the "Bridge Of No Return". This used to be the only bridge between North and South Korea, the MDL runs right through the middle of it. The bridge was also portrayed in the Bond film "Die Another Day" when 007 walks into SK from NK. In reality, the bridge is not surrounded by guard towers and barbed wire, but it is still a tense enough place that we were not allowed to get off the bus. We also saw the scene of the "axe murder incident" (go on Wikipedia for details). Here is a photo of the bridge and a video. You can hear our guide telling us that we have to stop taking pictures as we depart the JSA.

My main observation about the JSA was that it was very quiet. Not in a peacful, calm quiet way, but an eerie, scary kind of quiet. Relations between North and South may be thawing, but you wouldn't know it if you visit Panmunjom/JSA. I am so glad we went though, I feel lucky to have seen what really amounts to the last remenants of the Cold War era, and a symbol which can hopefully be removed one day.

After leaving the JSA we changed back to our original bus at Camp Bonifas, watched some soldiers play baseball and then headed back to Seoul. We stayed in to watch the Man U v Arsenal and then had a wee night out. Today has been spent recovering, and I am just back from Bupyeong where Neil, Gordie and I had some pizza and watched a DVD in a "bang".

Some other news of note, Bubba has died. He passed away on Wednesday, after being attacked by Harry. So Harry now has the run of the tank, and is making full use of it. He is very active, and although it was sad to see Bubba go so quickly, I think it is maybe for the best.

Well, I'm going to watch "Back To The Future II" and go to bed. School tomorrow.............